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Nikki Yazxhi

perfect eyebrows


Here’s how to shape up, master the make-up moves and avoid going overboard…

eyebrow architecture

To find your perfect eyebrow shape it’s ideal to have an expert attend to them first. An eyebrow specialist will determine the shape to suit your individual features, including bone structure and density of the hair. Once you have them shaped professionally it’s easier to maintain them at home.
THE PERFECT SHAPE: The most elegant and natural looking eyebrow shape is elongated, clean and simple. The beginning of the eyebrows should have the least amount of curve. The arch of your brows should gradually rise from the inner corners of the eyes, finding its peak outside the iris and then sloping gently toward the end of the brow to extend slightly beyond the eye. Individual features can then determine thickness.
TRENDS: The latest trend is straight-across brows, a trend that has been huge in Korea for quite awhile. Why exactly this has become a trend is hard to say, but we think it has to do with the fact that soft, arch-less brows mimic the way your brows look when you’re younger, therefore making you appear more “youthful”.

your wow-brow kit

Brow maintenance should become a weekly beauty regimen. If you maintain your brows regularly the regrowth is easier to spot and there’s less chance of over-plucking. Your kit should include:
* A Brow Brush/Comb – with shorter, thick bristles are best as they keep hairs in place.
* Slanted Tweezers – will grip the hairs best. Afterwards, wipe the tip with alcohol to remove the oily build-up to prolong your tweezers life.
* Magnifying Mirror – helps isolate even the finest hairs for precision tweezing.
* Witch Hazel – use on a cotton ball before and after tweezing to soothe the area and avoid those little red bumps.
* An eyebrow definer – to create a defined natural brow. CLICK HERE to see our faves

shaping up

The best way to keep eyebrows perfectly shaped is to use a combination of waxing and tweezing. Waxing cleans up the stray hairs and gives the brow a much cleaner line, and tweezing defines the overall shape.
1. Look at your bone structure and hair texture as a guideline for your eyebrows. Softer, more delicate facial features look best with a thinner, more elegant eyebrow, while a stronger bone structure is the perfect face for a thicker, stronger eyebrow.
2. Once the shape is determined, brush your brows into place so you can see the natural shape. Hold a pencil parallel to the bridge of your nose; the inside of the brow should start here. To find the highest point of your brow, hold the pencil parallel to the outside corner of your iris and when finding the outside edge of your brow, angle the pencil diagonally from your nostril to the outside corner of your eye. Mark the spots mapped above with an eyebrow pencil and now you can begin.
3. Start by removing the stray hairs between your eyes, underneath your brow bone, and near your temples. Only tweeze a few hairs at a time, taking a step back every so often to gauge your progress. Begin with one eyebrow, and then move back and forth between the brows after every couple of plucks to ensure proper symmetry.
4. Wipe the brow area with a cotton ball soaked in Witch Hazel to clean the area and prevent ingrown hairs. To reduce redness, dab with an ice cube wrapped in a tissue and apply Aloe Vera gel.

Have your eyebrows professionally waxed, if only once in your life, so you can see the difference a great shape can make. A good eyebrow therapist will know the best shape for your face and will teach you what suits you.
How to find a great waxing and shaping expert…
* If you see someone with great eyebrows, ask them where they have them shaped.
* Always insist the therapist holds down the area firmly around the brow area when they’re removing the wax. Over time, the constant pulling of the skin can cause it to come away from the bone, making it saggy and puffy. A good therapist will automatically do this.
* Hygiene issues are very important. Never go to a salon that re-use’s the waxing strips. Always insist that they use disposable strips and check that all their instruments are sterilized between clients.

colour guide

LIGHTENING: Depending on your skin tone and the colour of your hair, eyebrows that are a shade or two lighter are often more flattering. An eyebrow expert uses professional hair tints rather than bleach for this process to ensure brows don’t turn orange. They would also ensure that your eyelashes are darker than your brows to balance the eyes and make sure you don’t look washed out.
TINTING: If you have very fair eyebrows an expert can tint your brows using semi-permanent vegetable dye. This adds definition, shape and looks very natural.

make-up moves

When done correctly, filling in the brows will give definition and fullness, without looking unnatural.
Here’s how…
1. If you’ve applied makeup, comb through the brows to ensure there’s no foundation through the hairs. Use an upward and outward motion to keep the hairs in place while shading them in.
2. Choose an eyebrow pencil one shade lighter than your brows. If your eyebrows are very fair, choose a slightly darker shade to accentuate the natural shape of the brow. Light hair can use blonde and taupe shades; brown to dark brown hair can use tawny or brown shades; and black hair and dark complexions can use grey shades.
3. Start at the beginning of your brow, and apply your pencil in the direction of the hair with light, feathery strokes. Continue throughout the entire brow, making sure to fill any gaps, shape the arch and taper the end to a soft point.
4. Brush the brows lightly to blend the colour and keep hairs in place.

eyebrow do’s & don’t’s

DO: Pluck after a steamy shower or bath, when the pores are open from the heat the hairs are easier to remove.
DO: Tweeze a few hairs at a time in a well-lit area to avoid over-plucking.
DO: Keep the beginning of the brow and the end of the brow even, i.e. along the same horizontal axis.
DO: Hold skin taut and pull in the direction of the hair to prevent the skin from pinching and to make it less painful.
DON’T: Tweeze above the brows, unless it’s only just to take the stray hairs well above the brow line.
DON’T: Rush when grooming your eyebrows. The hairs can take a few months and even up to a couple of years to grow back.
DON’T: Avoid trimming completely. Eyebrows that are trimmed will not look natural when growing back.
DON’T: Overdo eyebrow shaping, as less is truly better. Thin eyebrows tend to make your face look instantly older.

+ CLICK HERE to see more tips & tricks
{Pic: byrdie}


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